1972 - 1976 Ford Clock OEM D2GF-15000 Cleaned, Lubricated, Tested

Description

Clock has been disassembled, cleaned, serviced, bench tested.
Removed the clock from its housing to service it. The contact points which are part of the electrical rewind circuit have been cleaned and dressed to remove dirt and as much pitting as is possible on the points. Lubricated the movement's balance wheel, oscillator bar, escapement drive gear and gear pivot holes with synthetic watch oil. Connected the clock to a power source and ran the clock for several hours.
Lens has no cracks or breaks, nice clear glass but there are some scratches.
Very nice colors, lettering and markings on the clock face and hands.
Metal housing was media cleaned and has no damage.
While I have provided an honest assessment of the clocks current condition, due to the clocks age and unknown history, I MAKE NO GUARANTEE HOW LONG THIS CLOCK WILL CONTINUE TO RUN.
Sold in AS IS condition
A WORD ABOUT VINTAGE CLOCKS
I am not a trained clock repairman, just an old car hobbyist that enjoys the challenge of restoring old automobile clocks back to working condition. Assuming no physical damage or rust issues, the majority of clocks can be brought back to life by performing 4 operations that do not require the skill of a trained clock repairman.
1) cleaning
2) lubricating
3) dressing the contact points
4) resoldering wires
If the clock won't run after performing these 4 operations, it's time to send the clock to a clock repair shop.
There are two components to automotive clocks of the 1930s to 1960s, an electrically-actuated winding mechanism and a mechanical gear train that advances the clock hands.
Electric power is available to the clock whether or not the car is running. As the clock runs, a set of contact points wired in series with a solenoid close, energizing the solenoid which rewinds the clock. This cycle repeats itself every 1 to 2 minutes. As the car sits unused, the clock continues to run and the battery begins losing voltage. At some point, the full 6 or 12 volts are no longer available. The voltage reaches a level that is not high enough to energize the solenoid, but there is still current flowing to the clock and the contact points stay closed. The wires or solenoid get so hot that they burn through or the contact points corrode and pit reducing electrical conductivity. Result: the clock stops running.
If you look at the owner's manual for these clocks, you'll see that they were never designed to be maintenance-free. They require periodic cleaning and oiling. While the clock will run without lubrication, as oil dries and dirt accumulates, wear starts to occur. Result: gear pivot holes become elongated and the clock will start to run erratically then stop when the gears bind up.
While I can't guarantee the clock will run one day, one week, one month, or several years, I do know there are only so many cycles built into the clock before it starts to wear out.
You can help to keep this clock running as long as possible by disconnecting the battery when you?re not running the car and keeping the battery fully charged.
Low voltage will cause the points to stay closed overheating the circuit resulting in a burned out solenoid, pitted points, or broken wires. Also consider removing the clock (as recommended in the owner's manual) and have it cleaned and oiled on a periodic basis.